Noche de Muertos in Michoacan-Hacienda Porumbo

For general information on day of the dead please click on this post: day of the dead.

Dia de muertos is a big tourist attraction in Michoacan. The Patzcuaro Lake region is well known for the cultural events that take place around the candle lit cemeteries on November 1st. If you are considering partaking in this annual event, start by checking out Visit Patzcuaro.com here for up to date information on Day of the Dead activities. Morelia also has events although if you are looking for the all night vigil at the cemetery you will be disappointed as the local municipal cemetery is closed around 11pm on the night of November 1st. This blogger does recommend visiting the lake region on that night and for a one of the kind experience I suggest my readers consider staying at Hacienda Porumbo (here is the link to their Facebook page). Every year they hold a mezcal tasting event and this year it was held a day after noche de muertos on November 2nd at the Hacienda.

Hacienda Porumbo is a 18th century ex-hacienda that has been lovingly restored by the Torres family. The hacienda offers spaces for groups and families, with two cabins with views of Lake Patzucaro, each cabin is fully furnished, with a fireplace, comfortable beds, water heaters for hot showers, and fully equipped kitchen. There are also individual rooms available for rent. To get to Hacienda Porumbo by car, head towards Erongaricuaro from Patzcuaro and turn left on the highway that goes to Pichataro. Approximately three kilometers you will see a dirt road to the left and that is the entrance to Hacienda Porumbo. Staying at Hacienda Porumbo is a great way to get a feeling for what the Patzucaro region is like while being able to explore the area by foot, horseback, public buses or car. The hacienda is close to many villages and towns that celebrate noche de muertos  I visited the Arocutin cemetary on November 1st. The cemetary is small but very representative of what this event is all about: remembering the dead with love and dedication. Click here to see my pictures from this year's noche de muertos!

Noche de Muertos Day of the Dead

Day of the Dead or Dia de Muertos, is a celebration of prehispanic orgins observed in the villages and towns of Michoacan. October 31st is dedicated to the remember the souls of children that have passed on and November 1st adults who have died.  Michoacan is not the only state where these dates are celebrated, Oaxaca, Puebla, and Mexico State to name some and each have their own traditions although they do share similar characteristics. For more general information on Day of the Dead, visit wikipedia and Mary J. Andrade's Day of the Dead website. 

Day of the Dead: Oaxaca

Thousands of years ago, humans all over the world were establishing traditions by making offerings and performing rituals at the time of year when the days grow shorter and the nights grow longer. In Mexico these traditions are still a part of its modern day culture, drawing in thousands, if not more, tourists from all over the world to witness the Day of the Dead altars and traditions. Ecuadorian born photographer and author Mary J. Andrade wrote the 1999 bilingual book Dia de los Muertos Oaxaca/Day of the Dead Oaxaca and it is a great resource for anyone who is interested in learning about the Day of the Dead customs, history and traditions. 

Published by Andrade's husband's La Oferta Review Newspaper, Andrade provides her reader with a peak into how this day is celebrated and left this reader in particular wanting to know more; to visit Oaxaca and smell the autumn air that blows through the towns that observe the pre-hispanic and Catholic mixed traditions that are unique to Dia de los Muertos. Setting the scene for the Central Valleys way of celebrating  Andrade writes on page 25 "one of the traditions with the longest history is the celebration of Day of the Dead. This celebration is one of the oldest and lasts several days before and after Novemeber 2nd, depending on the town and its location in the Central Valley." She continues by explaining the particular importance of Day of the Dead in Oaxaca "in fact Day of the Dead...should be deemed Week of the Dead. Eight days prior to the traditional appointed date...the city's main market...bursts with articles and condiments needed for the celebration..."Oaxaca is just one of the many regions in Mexico where Day of the Dead is observed. 


To get a real feel for Dia de Muertos planning a trip to Oaxaca, Michoacan or Morelos  at the end of October is a great way to go. The next best thing is to read Mary J. Andrade's Dia de Muertos en Mexico series available for sale at her website 


Watch the Youtube video at the end of this post filmed last year in Oaxaca City of the artwork laid out  on the ground outside of the cathedral. And for more information on where to stay in Michoacan for Dia de Muertos click here. Come back soon to get updated information on Day of the Dead activities and recommendations!




 

Mexico City Coming Soon...

We are working on a post to cover one of the most fascinating cities in the world, Mexico City, or "El D.F." as it is called in Mexico. Currently we are conducting a poll of Mexicans and Mexican tourists as to what sites they would recommend you see! Check back soon for our post!

In Thermal Waters

Los Azufres is a well known vacation spot in central Mexico. Located in Michoacan near the Cerro San Andres, Los Azufres is “under developed” in the sense that no large hotel chains have set up business there, for now. Among the noted places to stay are Club Tejamaniles, Los Azufres Spa Natural and Laguna Larga (for photos of Laguna Larga click here).

The main roadway into Los Azufres is a two lane road tucked in pine tree forests that curves and turns with the landscape.  There is quite a bit of precipitation and the climate is much cooler than the surrounding areas. The Comision Federal de Electricidad or CFE (the government owned electric company) runs all the geothermal electric plants in Los Azufres. Kaolin dots the road side and it is very easy to get close to small geysers.  It is an ideal family vacation spot but can be perfect for couples or groups as well. Most hotels offer camp grounds or cabins for rent. The area is also well known for the fresh trout fisheries where you can pick your fish and have it prepared to your liking.
Los Azufres, in general is calm and refreshingly unchanged by people. It is definitely worth the while to visit!

Los Azufres Spa Natural

Los Azufres Spa Natual 

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Querendaro, Michoacán

Peppers drying in the sun on petates
Photo credit La Güare 

The incredible scenery of slowly rising green hills, white herons taking off from the shallow “Laguna de Querendaro” (Querendaro Lagoon) are just two added bonuses to the small town of Querendaro that is traditionally known for its dried chile peppers.  Once a year the “Feria del Chile” or Chile Fair, is held in late summer.  

Recently, while passing through the town on the way to see the monarch butterflies in Macheros, Estado de Mexico, dried apples and pears could be seen in clear plastic bags were lined up next to chile peppers.  This town is well worth the stop if you are interested in authentic Mexican, and in particular, Michoacano cuisine.  As you pass through, you will see plenty of shops set up selling dried goods and the town´s famous “pan de nata” which is a heavy sweat bread that sticks in your stomach for some time.  Driving to Querendaro from Michoacan´s state capital Morelia, go east on the Charo highway or consult this Google Map for more information. 

Walk by the lagoon, stop by the shops and stock up on dried chile peppers.  You can grind them up to make your own special mixes, or save the seeds to plant your own homegrown, organic pepper plants.  You can even dry them out if you decide to grow your own using the Querendaro tried and true method: laying them out on petates to dry in the sun.  

*A special thanks to Jesus Fuentes and Rosa María Farias for their help on researching this article.

Video of Querendaro´s Feria del Chile 

Traveling on a budget

Mexico is famous for cheap prices. Goods and services are known for being, generally, more affordable than in other countries, like the USA and Canada. But that doesn't mean you get bad service or goods for cheap prices. For example, you can find family run hotels and B&B which often means the owner is the person you see when you check in or out or have a doubt, question or complaint.  A business owner is much more likely to go out of her or his way to make sure the client is satisfied than some underpaid employee.  In general, Mexico is known for its hospitality and friendliness.  With a little time and web research, you can find a very affordable and very comfortable vacation plan for traveling in Mexico.  ¡Buen viaje!